Saturday 18 May 2013



Dear family and friends; hola, hola, hola from the beautiful sunny & warm you really don’t want to be stuck here Spanish Mediterranean. Now there is a lot of opinion from a lot of experts who will tell you to avoid the Spanish Med like the plague because it’s been completely taken over by the package holiday mob and is now wall to wall high rise holiday flats, English breakfast, ‘roast dinner just like mum makes’ and evening cocktails that make you throw up; and to an extent this is true, but if you take some time and trouble, and get a bit of help and advice from the Brothers (The International Fraternity of the Brotherhood of Motorhomers, known colloquially as ‘brothers’. It costs nothing to join but as you would expect there is a secret initiation ceremony which, for obvious reasons, I can’t tell you too much about; other than it involves a full moon, some bloodletting, lots of chanting and the wearing of a bear skin loin cloth....and take it from me.... dead bear doesn’t half take the shine off the crown jewels after an evening’s chanting and bloodletting!), then there is a completely unspoiled Spanish Med just waiting to be discovered. Once you get south of the ‘beyond belief ugly’ Benidorm and Alicante, the package holiday mob have run out of steam and what is left is what nature intended.....deserted beaches with just a couple of motor homes!

Benidorm high rise hell
So, after our dash down the snowy mountain from Morella we landed at Javia, a non descript seaside town between Barcelona and Valencia. Even though there were no other brothers there, it did look as though we could park on the edge of the pebbly beach, or at least there wasn’t a sign saying we couldn’t, so we did. The Spanish rozzers did a couple of drive-bys but didn’t bother us so we settled down for the night, although Fang did wake up at periodic intervals during the night because she was on rozzer watch......don’t ask me I just drive the bus! The master plan was to turn back north along the coast to visit Barcelona, however, the weather was still a bit on the chill/wet side so the next morning we decided to leave Barcelona for another trip and head south to find some warmth and comfort. 
It took us the best part of 4 hours to clear the bad weather, by that time we had skirted inland around the dreaded Benidorm and Alicante and headed for a town called Mula, just 20 miles outside Murcia and in the middle of Apricot growing country.
On route to Mula we made a detour into the mountains to visit a beautiful medieval mountain top village called Guadalest. It’s one of those places where you just walk around with your mouth open like a lunatic; I leave the photos to tell the story, although they don’t really do justice......






On the way back down the mountain we called in to visit what were supposed to be some spectacular waterfalls, but turned out to be a contrived tourist attraction with a 3 eur entrance fee....so we took a picture from the outside and left! But not before we’d forked out 5 eur for car parking .....they saw us coming down the ruddy mountain.



Mula itself has nothing of significance other than it is a normal Spanish working town with no knick knacks for tourists. Sadly it was also a town which reflected the state of the Spanish recession, nearly every shop or business premises had closed, redevelopment projects remained unfinished, we saw a crane and a lorry abandoned in the middle of a half built housing complex, even the municipal swimming baths which opened six years ago, had closed, with stagnant water still in the pool. However, we had a couple of relaxing days in the sunshine just wandering around the area, visiting the town square which came to life with families and the locals every afternoon.......and believe it or not, all the open public plazas had free Wi-Fi!



We left Mula and headed again for the coast and a small fishing village called La Azohia......what a find this place is for the likes of us. La Azohia is just west of Cartagena and just around the headland in the Gulf of Mazarron. The Gulf of Mazarron is known for its temperate climate; it very rarely drops below 18 degrees at anytime of the year. When we were there in early May, the temperature was around 25 each day with a gentle sea breeze that seemed to come in every afternoon to cool things down a bit. We spent 6 glorious days parked up near the quay watching the daily comings and goings of the fishing boats. As an added bonus the snorkelling was brilliant, like swimming in an aquarium and cycling along the beach front was brill as well.

Bringing in the Tuna


Jacques Cousteau and I were like brothers
We made many new best friends during our stay, perhaps one of the more remarkable would be Mick and his wife Mary;


Now here’s a story for you; Mick is an Irishman who had a building business in London, pretty successful it would seem as he had 8 vans and 25 lads running round Kensington. About 9 years ago Mary developed Dementia which meant Mick had to give up his business to look after her.....as Mick puts it ‘after 56 years of marriage what else was I going to do’. But being Mick, he decides that rather than them both sit at home staring at four walls he would buy a motorhome and go travelling with Mary! And that’s what they have been doing for the past 7 years, Mick gets to meet lots of people, Mary seems to be happy sitting in the van watching the world go by and they spend their winters in the sunshine. Nice story if that was the end of it.....but it’s not. Last November, in the very same fishing village, parked up in the very same place, Mick has a stroke! As luck would have it that there were a couple of English vans parked up with them, so one of the chaps took Mick off to hospital while their wives looked after Mary. Now I’m not sure how this happens, but Mick wakes up in hospital with Mary and their two daughters from London at his bedside. So, Mick makes a recovery, has nothing but praise for the treatment he received in a Spanish hospital (which cost him nothing), his son comes out from London to drive the van and they all go home happy and healthy. Then blow me down here we are in May, 5 months later, and Mick and Mary are back on the road and have returned to the self same spot! Mick is 77 and Mary is 80......there is hope for us all! 
   

The Trundlebus mixing it with the big boys

Days end
Sunset at La Ahozia
Ever been to a bingo night? Not like this Spanish version you haven’t. This was on a Saturday evening and all the locals turned out bringing their plates of food and vino colapso. There was bingo, which was taken very seriously and a dramatic hush descended over the whole village during the calling, there was music and there was dancing......lots of dancing and....oh yes.... and a bit of dressing up by the señoritas.

Little Señorita

Grown up Señorita

Some of each

Anyone can do it with a fancy dress

You don't even need a fancy dress.....just a glass of vino colapso

Big and small young and tall
Fang, who likes to make it like the locals, was up for flamenco herself

Fang practising for the night of dancing

Fang waiting for a Senor to ask her for a flamingo.....it got dark and they all went home.... 
I was standing on the quayside one day watching the fishing boat unload when one of the fishermen stepped off the boat and just handed me a bag of fresh mackerel! What a dinner we had that night......after I had gutted and cleaned and gutted the ruddy things that is!



Taking the toilet cassette.......good idea to bring the bikes!

Our bay at La Azohia


Gulf of Mazarron
Now here’s a thing.....you know our Fang, well she just loves taking pictures, especially of people......she has this way of sidling up to people and doing a sort of pointy thing with her camera and then points at them and then before they know what is happening she is arranging them into a nice group for her shot, and then she sort of bounces up and down with excitement, blows them a kiss and off she goes....leaving her victims scratching their heads in Spanish/Portuguese/French and I  have to say, in fits of laughter! So we are sitting there one afternoon and a diver comes out of the sea with his harpoon gun and an octopus that he’s caught (well shot actually!). Fang jumps up cooing like an excited school girl on her first date and runs over doing her pointing thingy with her camera.....blow me barnacles if the diver, who must have seen all this pointy thing before, turns the tables on Fang, gives her the harpoon gun & the octopus and takes the camera! So there she is in her Pringle cardigan and shorts trying to look as if she does this sort of thing all the time..... posing with an octopus nearly as big as her.......nice one Diver Dan!




Sadly we had to depart our haven which has now been renamed Magic Bay by Fang who likes to give her own name to places, things and people to help her remember.....she called me Herbert for the first 10 years.

In a planning meeting with Isabella & Francisco

Me Isabella & husband Albert from Belgium
And then it was onto our next stop which was only about 10 miles around the bay

Pleasant Bay......Fang's name not the map 



Until we meet again dear family and friends, we bid you adios from the Mediterranean sunshine.

Thursday 2 May 2013


Ola dear family & friends, the Cainfenton Trundlebus is on the road again for a 3 month tour. Our as usual very general plan, is to head down through France to the Spanish border at San Sebastian, then drop down through Central Spain to the Mediterranean, and trundle along the Spanish & Portuguese coast. We will then head north through Portugal and back to France via Northern Spain. On the way home we hope to visit Fang’s cousin Denise & Mick in their chateaux somewhere in France while her delightful enchanting Aunty Violet is visiting with the delectable if somewhat scary Anny GetYourGunCutter, both of whom you might remember from last year’s exploits. We will then be visiting a cousin of mine who also has a chateaux somewhere in France; but more of them in a later blog.

We actually left Macclesfield on the 15th April so have already been on the road now for a couple of weeks. The start of our journey was as eventful as you might expect. After a completely trouble free winter of motoring with the Trundlebus, an error free MOT and a full service that found nothing untoward we boarded on the Sunday morning to set off for Dover and....yes you guessed it....turned the key & nought. The starter motor was playing up again on the very,very start of the trip! Still, nothing to worry about now that I have my French socket set; out I jump with socket set in hand, do some faffing under the bonnet to tighten a bolt that is the offender; I shout ‘give it a go now Fang’ ( who is by the way in her first apoplectic fit of the trip and we are not even off the driveway!) and the Trundlebus roars into life. I jump back in, tighten the bolt in Fang’s neck just to make sure everything is secure, and off we set for Dover and beyond.  

Our first nights stop was just south west of Paris in a delightful spot right on the banks of the majestic River Seine. We spent the evening watching the enormous barges plying up and down the river taking their loads into the centre of Paris.

Fang relaxing beside the River Seine

 
To add a new dimension to the trip this time we have bought along our bikes. I took a bike ride along the river on the first evening and it was brilliant. The next morning Fang decided that she would like to take a ride.....

Fang flat out on her bike
Fang after 50 yards... she decides pushing is better
After another 50 yards... she decides me pushing is even better

The weather is pleasant enough in France so we decide to take our time and re-visit a little place called Falaise; the birth place of William the Conqueror in Normandy. From there we move further south to a night stop in a very sleepy village called Laigne en Belin in the middle of the French countryside. This is in our book of places for motorhomes to stay but we couldn’t find the designated bays. However, the village was so quiet, and it’s not that unusual not to find designated bays, so we tucked ourselves into a corner of the village square. The weather was sunny and warm for the afternoon and evening and we spent a nice lazy time in the quiet of the village. Next morning about 6.30am we are in bed having a nice cup of tea, curtains and blinds are still closed. Next thing there is a loud knock on the side of the van followed by a stream of French that went far beyond anything we had been taught in our ‘French for Beginners’ Class. ‘Go and find out what that is Jono’ orders Fang slurping her tea. So dutifully, I get out of my bed and go out to have a look.......blimey oh riley its market day and the traders are all around us setting up their stalls and some are already trading. There I am standing in the middle of what was last night a nice quiet village square, and is now a bustling market, attired in my fetching but highly inappropriate M&S shorty pyjamas. I rush back to the van to find Fang still in bed enjoying her first cup of Tetley’s with French housewives poking their head through the window asking for half a pound of cod, but in French. ‘Stay where you are Fang’ says I, and jump into the driving seat praying that the ruddy starter motor is not going to fail me now. All is well and I drive out of the market waving and nodding to the traders in French with Fang still lying in bed slurping her tea.

Next was a little town called Couhe, which did not have a lot going for it; but was a convenient night stop over. We did have a pleasant bike ride in the afternoon, although Fang sees things differently because I led us a bit of a merry chase down blind alleys trying to find a nice ride along the river....I call it exploring.....Fang calls it going the wrong way.

The old market at Couhe

Fang seems to be getting in the swing on her bike now

And so onto the enchanting town of Brantome in the Dordogne. We spent a delightful afternoon and evening parked beside the river in this beautiful little town, and we even lucked upon market day. Now here’s a thing.....we are wandering through the market in the sunshine browsing all the delicious food stalls when Fang, drooling from her chops at each stall, spies one selling fresh scallops. ‘Ooh look’ says she ‘do I like scallops Jono?’ ‘Yes you do’ says I, ’Have I had them before then?’ says she ‘Yes you have, that’s how I know you like them’ says I (sometimes it’s ruddy hard work being Mr Fang!), ‘Let’s have some for tonight’ says Fang. So I beckon madam scallop seller over, point in French and raise my eyebrow in a very Gallic way, and she jabbers away in French thinking I am one of her kinsmen. She has gently spooned a good portion of said scallops into a tub and asks if that’s enough, Fang gives her version of a Gallic shrug, and indicates perhaps a couple more. Voila......that’s 17,50 euro merci buckets......well Fang has a silent fit while she hands over her dosh and then chews my ear off all the way back to the van for letting her buy the scallops . That night I cook Coquille St Jacques for the first time in years and it was scrumptious even if I do say so myself. Fang now tells anyone who will listen about the scallops I bought in the market for 17,50 eur?*!

The enchanting Brantome





Looking at the map that evening we discovered that we could find a stopover on the banks of the Canal Midi. The canal was built in 1640 and runs from Bordeaux right down to the Mediterranean and is pretty as a picture all the way. We spent a wonderful couple of days going on cycle rides along the canal. It was here that we met a couple from the UK.         John and Clare had spent the last 4 ½ years sailing around the Mediterranean in their boat. They then decided to sell the boat and buy a motorhome, and here they were on their first trip through France and heading for Portugal. A charming couple and we had a right royal laugh with them.

Parked up on the Canal Midi

Our new best friends John & Clare

Cycling was a delight even for Fang!



 Next onto a place called Dax, which is just on the French side of the Pyrenees and a perfect stopover before our venture into Spain. We found a great spot in some woods and met up again with John & Clare who were of course heading in the same direction as us. We spent the next two days just relaxing and enjoying the sunshine.

Our view from the back window

Giving my opinion on something.....as usual

Mad Hatters tea party in the woods
Off now over the Pyrenees and onto one of our most favourite towns in Spain; the beautiful San Sabastian with its stunning sandy beach right in the city and its narrow atmospheric streets crowded with tapas bars. Again we met up with John & Clare and spent another nice couple of days in their company. Here we parted company with them as they were heading along the northern coast of Spain into Portugal and we were heading south through central Spain.

San Sebastian


The beach at San Sebastian
 
Lunch on the beach

Fang found this young chap to take the photo above, and then insisted on taking his photo much to the delight of his two girl friends
 
We headed for a hilltop village in the rugged and beautiful El Maestrat mountains. Morella, surrounded by forested hills and surmounted with a lofty castle is a heart-stopping sight. It was a bit cool here as we were over 1000 meters but well worth it as the climb up through the narrow cobbled streets to the castle battlements was spectacular.

The mountain top town of Morella

The double viaduct built by the Romans...who else?

The massive castle gates


The view of the country side from the castle
The following morning, at 6.55am to be exact, I opened the curtains to a foot of snow, I jest not .... and it was still snowing, so we got up and high-tailed-it off that mountain, or rather at 5 miles an hour, meeting two snow ploughs on the way down, it was a pretty hairy trip in the Trundle! On the upside Fang didn’t say a word for an hour or so, she just sat in the passenger seat with her bum cheeks tightened up around her ears.



I was following another brother off the mountain

This is the road we had down off the mountain !

However, all is well and we are now down on the coast.......until next time dear family & friends we bid you adios from the Spanish Mediterranean.